Rock Shox Pike

!±8± Rock Shox Pike

a ride on my bike with an Rock Shox U-Turn 454 Air Fork. I am 70kg, air pressure is like described on the manual.

Rock Shox Pike

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Top 5 Toothpick Holders Ever Made

!±8± Top 5 Toothpick Holders Ever Made

Because toothpicks have existed for centuries, it would take exhausting and serious work to find the top 5 toothpick holders ever made. You can even find a toothpick among the features of a famous penknife meant for survival purposes. A possible proof of the subject's wide development through time is the National Toothpick Holder Collectors' Society, which (according to Wikipedia) "promotes and supports the collecting of toothpick holders, and provides education for both members and non-members by providing research, written documentation, new articles, and by participating in other collector-related events".

Profuse though the subject may be, we can try an approach to what we think could be the best five toothpick holders ever made. Here they are:

1) Waterproof Brass Pocket Toothpick Case
This solid brass pocket toothpick holder has all the great features that are built into the TubePix® line, plus the added bonus of being waterproof. Two halves are screwed together using a brass connector fitted with rubber o-rings. If you are a sportsman on the go, this is for you, as it is virtually indestructible. The metal container functions as a pill box as well.

2) Custom Engraved 400 Series Toothpick Case
You can customize your engraving by selecting from different fonts and design elements. Mix and match decorations to create a personalized gift for yourself, or for a friend.

3) The Ouch! Toothpick Holder
This is the result of a twisted imagination gone wild (which we're all for), and is a fantastic alternative to the norm. Although they're meant to be for toothpicks, we reckon this pair makes the most original and trendy canapé holders on the planet. So whether you're picking your teeth, passing round the quail eggs or some retro 'cheese and pineapple' sticks, this pair of Ouch! is set to be the most talked about party accessory of the year. It's painfully funny.

4) Pocket Pics Stainless Steel Pocket Toothpick Holder
PocketPics slim design fits perfectly in your pocket, briefcase, or purse while keeping your supply of toothpicks clean and handy. It accommodates 12 toothpicks. It has an easy open cap and features a stainless steel pocket clip for a professional look.

5) Metal Toothpick Case
The two precision pieces screw together to hold 8-9 toothpicks. A rubber o-ring seal keeps your toothpicks clean, dry, and fresh. This item can be engraved and makes a very nice gift for the graduate or groomsmen. It is also good for pills or a rolled-up bill, a nice cash stash for the grad!

Top 5 Toothpick Holders Ever Made

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How to Cook A London Broil

!±8± How to Cook A London Broil

A London broil is a great way to cook steak. Note that I said a “way to cook.” In other words, it’s a method, not a specific cut of meat. This distinction has confused many a novice cook.

Adding to the confusion, some butchers will call a cut of meat “London broil.” Usually, though, the cut of beef used for a London broil is flank steak, although other cuts, notably top round steak, may be substituted.

Flank steak is naturally tough, so you need to tenderize it (by pounding with a mallet) or marinate it, or both, before cooking with it. To turn it into a proper London broil, you ... broil it. Makes sense, right? But not so fast ... you can also grill it and still call it a London broil.

Here are two recipes, one for broiled London broil, and the other for grilled London broil.

London Broil (Broiled)

Ingredients

<>1 beef flank steak (1 to 2 pounds)

<>1/3 cup Italian salad dressing

<>2 tablespoons red wine or red wine vinegar

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons cooking oil

Directions

1. Combine salad dressing, wine or wine vinegar, garlic and cooking oil in a bowl to make a marinade.

2. Make several shallow cuts on both sides of the steak. Place the meat in a baking dish.

3. Brush the steak with the marinade; be sure to coat both sides. Cover pan with plastic wrap. Place in refrigerator and let marinate for 1 hour.

4. Remove from refrigerator. Pour off excess marinade.

5. Preheat oven broiler. Place pan with steak approximately 3 inches from top heat. Cook 5 to 8 minutes per side (to medium doneness).

6. Cut steak into slices and serve.

London Broil (Grilled)

Ingredients

3/4 cup cooking oil

3 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons red wine or red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons soy or Worcestershire sauce

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper

1 tablespoon parsley flakes

1 flank steak (1 to 2 pounds)

Directions

1. Combine all ingredients except the meat in a bowl to make your marinade.

2. Make several shallow cuts on both sides of the steak and place in a baking dish. Try for a cross-hatching effect with several overlapping, diagonal cuts.

3. Brush steak with marinade, making sure to coat both sides. Cover pan with plastic wrap, place in refrigerator and let marinate for at least 1 hour.

4. Grill steak over hot charcoal or other high heat for 5 to 8 minutes per side, depending on the degree of doneness desired. Baste with leftover marinade if you wish.

5. Remove steak from grill, slice into thin strips, and serve.

How to Cook A London Broil

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Heater And Air Conditioning System Precautions

!±8± Heater And Air Conditioning System Precautions

Before you have opened the system

Beware

When discharging air conditioning system, use only approved refrigerant recovery recycling equipment make sure you make every attempt to avoid discharging refrigerant into the atmosphere.

DISCHARGING THE A/C SYSTEM

The EPA indicates that R-11, R-12 and R-113 are very harmful to the Earths Ozone layer. Make sure you make every attempt possible to avoid discharging R-11, R-12 or R-113 into the atmosphere.

1. Remove service valve and install gauges. For high side gauge hose, Adapter must be used to connect to high side service valve.

2. Slightly open low side gauge valve and let refrigerant escape slowly without loosing refrigerant oil.

3. When system is nearly discharged, using approved refrigerant recovery recycling equipment, open high side gauge valve to release any pressure trapped in compressor. Close valves immediately after discharging to prevent entry of moisture.

DISCONNECTING LINES & FITTINGS

1. After system is discharged, using approved refrigerant recovery recycling equipment, carefully clean entire area around coupling nut to prevent dirt entering system. Always use two wrenches to avoid twisting or distorting lines and fittings

2. Cap or plug all LINES and FITTINGS immediately to prevent entry of air and moisture into system. Do not remove these caps until connections are being made make sure you make every attempt to avoid discharging refrigerant into the atmosphere.

COMPONENT REPLACEMENT

When components are replaced, system oil level must be adjusted. Add refrigeration oil to replacement component. See Compressor oil Check article, as well as, Component Oil Replacement Quantities" chart under "A/C SYSTEM SPECS" article in this HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONING

SYSTEM PRECAUTIONS

Before you have opened the system
BE AWARE

When discharging air conditioning system, use only approved refrigerant recovery recycling equipment make sure you make every attempt to avoid discharging refrigerant into the atmosphere.

DISCHARGING THE A/C SYSTEM

The EPA indicates that R-11, R-12 and R-113 are very harmful to the Earths Ozone layer. Make sure you make every attempt possible to avoid discharging R-11, R-12 or R-113 into the atmosphere.

1. Remove service valve and install gauges. For high side gauge hose, Adapter must be used to connect to high side service valve.

2. Slightly open low side gauge valve and let refrigerant escape slowly without losing refrigerant oil.

3. When system is nearly discharged, using approved refrigerant recovery recycling equipment, open high side gauge valve to release any pressure trapped in compressor. Close valves immediately after discharging to prevent entry of moisture.

DISCONNECTING LINES & FITTINGS

1. After system is discharged, using approved refrigerant recovery recycling equipment, carefully clean entire area around coupling nut to prevent dirt entering system. Always use two wrenches to avoid twisting or distorting lines and fittings

2. Cap or plug all LINES and FITTINGS immediately to prevent entry of air and moisture into system. Do not remove these caps until connections are being made make sure you make every attempt to avoid discharging refrigerant into the atmosphere.

COMPONENT REPLACEMENT

When components are replaced, system oil level must be adjusted. Add refrigeration oil to replacement component. See Mercedes oil Check article, as well as, Component Oil Replacement Quantities chart under "A/C SYSTEM SPECS" article in this section.

USING R-12 REFRIGERANT.

1. Always wear eye protection when around air conditioning systems
air conditioning systems and R-12. The system's high pressure can cause severe injury to eyes and skin if a hose were to burst. R-12 evaporates quickly when exposed to atmosphere, freezing anything it contacts.

2. Use care when handling refrigerant containers. DO NOT drop or strike containers or expose refrigerant containers to excessive heat. Containers must never be heated more than (52°C) 125°F. Never expose R-12 directly to open flame.

CAUTION: When R-12 is exposed to an open flame, drawn into a running engine, or detected with a Halide leak tester, poisonous phosgene gas is formed. Keep work areas ventilated.

INDIVIDUAL R-12 CANS

Disposable refrigerant cans have a flat type seal or a screw type seal, and proper can tap must be used for each type. Be sure sealing gasket on can tap is in good condition. A proper safety can tap will prevent refrigerant from flowing back into open can, as tap has a one-way flow control.

MULTI-CAN DISPENSING VALVES

A multi-can dispensing valve allows attachment of several cans of refrigerant, and is a good substitute when a bulk container is not available each leg has its own can tap cans are installed onto each leg of multi-can dispensing valve in the same manner as the individual cans.

CAN TAP INSTALLATION FLAT TYPE SEAL CANS

Recent findings by the EPA indicate that refrigerant is harmful to the Earth's protective Ozone layer. When discharging refrigerant avoid allowing refrigerant to enter the atmosphere. Refrigerant recovery system should be used when discharging the system.

First turn the handle outward to the fully open position. Securely engage locking lugs over the can flange, and lock them in place by turning cam lock or locking nut screw tap assembly into adapter so sealing gasket is fully seated against the can top.

Turn tap inward to pierce the can and close the tap. DO NOT open tap until ready to purge the service hose or dispense refrigerant into the system.
Be certain tap handle is turned fully inward to the closed position. Check that locking base is turned to its outer limit. Securely engage locking lugs over the can flange. Turn entire tap assembly downward into the locking base to pierce the can. DO NOT open tap until ready to dispense into system.

DO NOT open high side hand valve while air conditioning system is in operation. This high pressure could rupture can or fitting at safety can valve, resulting in damage and personal injury.

CONNECTING LINES & FITTINGS

A new "O" ring should be used in all instances when connecting lines and fittings. Always use two wrenches to avoid twisting or distorting lines and fittings, tighten coupling nuts securely.

PLACING SYSTEM IN OPERATION

1. Evacuate the system using a vacuum pump.

2. Charge the system with new R-12 according to each individual vehicle to Refrigerant Capacity.

3. Leak test the system, with particular attention to all new connections and components.

4. Make a performance test of the system.

COMPRESSOR REMOVAL INFORMATION

On systems which have compressors equipped with stem-type service valves, it is possible to isolate the compressor for removal.

Turn both high and low pressure manual valves to extreme clockwise position. Loosen cap on high pressure manual valve connection to compressor and allow gas to escape until compressor is relieved of pressure.

COMPRESSOR REMOVAL INFORMATION - DISCHARGE METHOD

This procedure is to be used on vehicles which have compressor equipped with Schrader valves. In these cases, the compressor cannot be isolated and the system must be discharged, using approved refrigerant recycling equipment.

USING R-12 REFRIGERANT.

1. Always wear eye protection when around air conditioning systems and R-12. The system's high pressure can cause severe injury to eyes and skin if a hose were to burst. R-12 evaporates quickly when exposed to atmosphere, freezing anything it contacts.

2. Use care when handling refrigerant containers. DO NOT drop or strike containers or expose refrigerant containers to excessive heat. Containers must never be heated more than (52°C) 125°F. Never expose R-12 directly to open flame.

CAUTION: When R-12 is exposed to an open flame, drawn into a running engine, or detected with a Halide leak tester, poisonous phosgene gas is formed. Keep work areas ventilated.

INDIVIDUAL R-12 CANS

Disposable refrigerant cans have a flat type seal or a screw type seal, and proper can tap must be used for each type. Be sure sealing gasket on can tap is in good condition. A proper safety can tap will prevent refrigerant from flowing back into open can, as tap has a one-way flow control.

MULTI-CAN DISPENSING VALVES

A multi-can dispensing valve allows attachment of several cans of refrigerant, and is a good substitute when a bulk container is not available each leg has its own can tap cans are installed onto each leg of multi-can dispensing valve in the same manner as the individual cans.

CAN TAP INSTALLATION FLAT TYPE SEAL CANS

Recent findings by the EPA indicate that refrigerant is harmful to the Earth's protective Ozone layer. When discharging refrigerant avoid allowing refrigerant to enter the atmosphere. Refrigerant recovery system should be used when discharging the system.

First turn the handle outward to the fully open position. Securely engage locking lugs over the can flange, and lock them in place by turning cam lock or locking nut. Screw tap assembly into adapter so sealing gasket is fully seated against the top. Turn tap inward to pierce the can and close the tap. DO NOT open tap until ready to purge the service hose or dispense refrigerant into the system.

Be certain tap handle is turned fully inward to the closed position. Check that locking base is turned to its outer limit. Securely engage locking lugs over the can flange. Turn entire tap assembly downward into the locking base to pierce the can. DO NOT open tap until ready to dispense into system.

DO NOT open high side hand valve while air conditioning system is in operation. This high pressure could rupture can or fitting at safety can valve, resulting in damage and personal injury.

CONNECTING LINES & FITTINGS

A new "O" ring should be used in all instances when connecting lines and fittings. Always use two wrenches to avoid twisting or distorting lines and fittings, tighten coupling nuts securely.

PLACING SYSTEM IN OPERATION

1. Evacuate the system using a vacuum pump.

2. Charge the system with new R-12 according to each individual vehicle to Refrigerant Capacity.

3. Leak test the system, with particular attention to all new connections and components.

4. Make a performance test of the system.

COMPRESSOR REMOVAL INFORMATION

On systems which have compressors equipped with stem-type service valves, it is possible to isolate the compressor for removal.

Turn both high and low pressure manual valves to extreme clockwise position. Loosen cap on high pressure manual valve connection to compressor and allow gas to escape until compressor is relieved of pressure.

COMPRESSOR REMOVAL INFORMATION - DISCHARGE METHOD

This procedure is to be used on vehicles which have compressor equipped with Schrader valves. In these cases, the compressor cannot be isolated and the system must be discharged, using approved refrigerant recycling equipment.

Heater And Air Conditioning System Precautions

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Saltwater Aquariums With No UV Sterilizer Equals Certain Troubles

!±8± Saltwater Aquariums With No UV Sterilizer Equals Certain Troubles

I am shocked and surprised how often I come across marine aquariums (reef or fish only) that have no U.V. sterilizer filter. These aquarists are playing Russian roulette with their aquariums, running the risk of being vulnerable to a parasite outbreak.

There are many different situations that can cause a disease and/or parasite outbreak in your marine aquarium. It could be adding new fish, or perhaps one of your fish changes sex and throws off the entire pecking order, or a fish dies or is removed and that throws off the pecking order; or say your chiller (if you have one) went on the fritz during a heat wave - and the list goes on.

And given that there are so many situations that could spark a disease or parasite outbreak, wouldn't you want to protect yourself (and your fish) against this likely possibility? Who wouldn't? And yet many aquarists don't have a U.V. sterilizer on their system. It's like rolling the dice and crossing your fingers, hoping you don't have a disease outbreak.

So, before I go any further, let me just say that - yes - you definitely need a U.V. sterilizer. That is, if you want your fish to live for years rather than months, and if you want to avoid even the possibility of a total system meltdown (scary scientific term). Yes, this is my opinion, but it is also backed up with over 11 years in keeping saltwater fish (primarily reef tanks) with only three disease outbreaks - and two of them were caused by human error. By disease outbreak, I mean multiple fish dying from parasite infestation. This is attributed to aggressive use of U.V. sterilizer filters. And don't forget, I'm not talking about just one tank. I run a high-end custom aquarium design, installation and maintenance business, where we service many customers with large saltwater aquariums.

So, yes, it's a bold statement. And it also happens to be true. See - I don't like problems or surprises when it comes to aquariums. Over the years of running my business, I have had to develop ways of preventing problems from even being able to happen on our customer's tanks; and then having designed the system to be prepared to accommodate the problem if it ever does happen. This is sort of our company philosophy to aquarium system design and it is a preventative approach designed to prevent problems - so that we put far less energy into reacting to and fixing problems. Any way - enough of that. Back to U.V. sterilization.

By now, you might be thinking "yeah right - I don't believe you". Well, I'm not saying that we've only seen parasites on some of our fish three times in 11 years. NOPE. We see low-levels of parasites on fish fairly often - but those fish are thriving and healthy and live long lives - typically for over five years, and are able to fight off the parasites. AND the parasites are not aloud to bloom to dangerous levels because the U.V. sterilizer kills the parasites when they are water born (verses dormant in the substrate) and looking for a host.

So, what is a U.V. sterilizer filter? The U.V. stands for ultraviolet sterilization. Basically, it contains a special light bulb which emits U.V. "C" light. U.V. "C" is the band of U.V. light that gives us sun burn. So, essentially, a U.V. sterilizer filter is "sun-burning-to-death" (scientific term) or sterilizing your aquarium water as it passes through the filter, and thus killing any water-born parasites. It runs 24/7 and is very cheap to operate and can PREVENT parasite outbreaks. What aquarist wouldn't want to be able to prevent a parasite outbreak? This is why having a U.V. is a no brainer MUST HAVE filter for your aquarium.

In addition, the U.V. filter will prevent bacteria blooms (caused by water-born bacteria - milky or cloudy water) and phytoplankton blooms (cause of green water). The result here is clear water. Of course, this doesn't remove the underlying cause of the bacteria bloom (excess organics and insufficient bio-filtration) which must still be dealt with.

Sizing is probably the most important factor when selecting your U.V. sterilizer for your aquarium. My general advice is to slightly oversize your U.V.. Most sizing charts are based on aquarium/system volume. The last thing you want is an undersized U.V., because then it is almost useless (i.e. it is too small to prevent disease outbreaks). Several parameters to consider are system/tank volume, water flow rate through the U.V. filter, and bio-load (how much life is in your tank). So again, when selecting your U.V. sterilizer, choose the next one up in size, as recommended on the sizing chart.

Example: If your aquarium is 100 gallons and the sizing chart recommends a 30watt UV for a 90g and a 40watt UV for a 120g, then go with the 40watt UV.

One of the primary criteria used in sizing a U.V. sterilizer is the water flow rate through the unit. See, if you send too much water (too high of a flow rate) through too small of a unit, then it won't be effective in killing the parasites. But for me (I'm lazy), that is too much work, calculating flow rates, etc., so what I do is take the manufacturers recommended sizing for my aquarium (gallons) and then choose the next larger size U.V.. This almost ensures that your U.V. will be effective in killing water-born parasites in your aquarium and preventing a disease outbreak. And nine times out of ten, if you do the calculations of water flow rate, UV kill rate, and total system volume, you will end up at the same size U.V. any way. One caviat here - this method is based on average bio-loading (average number of fish/invertebrates etc.) for any given tank volume. So if you are crazy aggressive with your stocking density of fish/corals/invertebrates/etc., then you may even want to choose a U.V. that is two sizes up.

Of course, U.V. is not the only effective way to sterilize against disease and parasites. Ozone is very effective if applied and monitored properly. But Ozone is far less forgiving than U.V., and while you cannot CAUSE any problems by over sizing a U.V. filter, you can cause BIG PROBLEMS by improperly applying and monitoring ozone. But more about ozone in future posts. For now, suffice it to say that U.V. is very safe and simple to apply to your aquarium filtration system, and there is no monitoring (unlike ozone).

You do need to ensure proper upkeep or maintenance of your U.V. sterilizer. Once a year, you must change the bulb and the O-ring and/or gasket, and clean off the quartz sleeve (housing the bulb). This may take 30 minutes to an hour to do, but is necessary because after a year of operation, the bulb has begun to lose its potency and the ozone gas produced by some U.V. bulbs will break down the O-ring and/or gaskets that seal off the quartz sleeve. And in some systems the quartz sleeve can accumulate mineral deposits that may reduce effectiveness of the U.V. bulb. A simple overnight vinegar bath and wipe-down with a sponge will do the trick.

Generally, I'm not big on having opinions. I like to be open-minded, and opinions tend to cut us off from being open to learning something new. But when something works as well and as consistently as this does, well, I feel strongly about it. The proof is in the pudding, as they say. I hope this is of help to you.

Saltwater Aquariums With No UV Sterilizer Equals Certain Troubles

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Nikon ProStaff 3-9x40 Riflescope (Matte, BDC)

!±8±Nikon ProStaff 3-9x40 Riflescope (Matte, BDC)

Brand : Nikon
Rate :
Price : $169.97
Post Date : Nov 20, 2011 02:36:27
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